After seeing the XGL magic in Suse 10.1, I really must try Vista.
I installed Suse 10.1 over the weekend as I had heard of the XGL magic. XGL was not installed by default, and I used yast2 to get the right packages installed.
I could then get gnome-xgl-settings to work, but it couldn't enable XGL as my graphics card (NVIDIA GEForce FX5200) was not supported. This post suggested that I download the driver from nvidia.
The package I downloaded from nvidia actually built a kernel module, installed the driver, prompted me to log out and back again, and voila, I had XGL.
[BTW, I couldn't run the install while I had X running, so I simply changed the default run level in /etc/inittab to 3, rebooted and installed from the console]
Lots of fun using the 3D desktop!